This week I watched the penultimate episode of this year’s
season of Top Chef, a cooking
competition that airs weekly on Bravo. Top
Chef is really the only reality show I can handle and watch on a regular
basis. After trying out several different cooking competitions (most of them on
the Food Network) with my wife, we found that Top Chef is one of the only shows that focuses on actual cooking,
and not some sort of fabricated drama. As far as I can tell, the producers do
not vet contestants that have tragic backstories, like they do in McCarthy’s
example with Extreme Makeover: Home
Edition. The contestants on Top Chef are
all accomplished chefs and the show is ostensibly only concerned with their
professional cooking.
Thus, I’m a little upset at Ouelette for ruining my last watchable
reality show. By thinking about Top Chef as
a form of education or “citizenship training,” it becomes clear that the show preserves
a political imbalance in the culinary world and beyond. As each week the contestants
must perform up to a fine dining standard, there arise clear divisions between the
social statuses of the chefs and judges. Under the guise of a “culinary art
contest,” the entire competition is structured around serving food for members
of the upper class. In other words, the chefs, hailed as creative geniuses, compete
by fulfilling typical working-class roles. While this is apparent in many
cooking shows, it is particularly relevant to the way this show is structured
around space and different settings. For example, whereas a show like Chopped always takes place in the same
kitchen where judges sit for the entirety of the show only a few feet away from
the contestants, Top Chef makes a
point to separate the cooking space from the judges’ table. In each episode,
the judges receive the complete dining experience. We watch as they talk and
socialize in expensive restaurants, while the contestants hand deliver their
plates. The editing can even be unintentionally comical, by frequently cutting between
the judges’ casual conversations and the chefs running around the kitchen,
fighting the clock.
While the main judges of the show are at least subtle when
it comes to their wealth, the guest judges are often less so. The familiar
faces range from celebrity chefs, to internet stars, to politicians. One of the
most dramatic examples this season is an episode shot entirely in the Colorado
governor’s mansion. As the governor and the first lady participate in the
judging of the food, the episode proudly aligns food criticism with power and
wealth.
According to Ouelette’s chapter, these structures in the
show instruct us to emulate a certain type of citizen, or specifically in this
case, a member of the culinary world/working class. I find it particularly alarming
considering the fact that the show is probably a major source of inspiration
for aspiring chefs. By situating the mark of success in relation to the service
of not only upper-class food critics, but celebrities and politicians, the show
undoubtedly propagates a damaging ideology.
I watched a lot of the early seasons of Top Chef (probably from about 2006 - 2010); for some reason it was something my whole family really enjoyed. In the early seasons there did seem to be a balance of reality T.V. drama and cooking competition, which made for a strange and interesting mix at the time. In a working-class household, the show was also a kind of gateway to what people with wealth eat, and it taught me some bourgeois culinary terms like "amuse-bouche." I find the disparity between the judges and the chefs, then, not all that unusual, as the show subscribes to more or less the same Horatio Alger myth as many other reality competition shows while also, as you point out, offering a lesson in conduct and terminology for those on the lower end of the class hierarchy.
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